You can now catch me from time to time as a guest blogger on Cheryl Janis’ Planet Pink N Green. Cheryl’s blog is a very cool collection of all things eco-chic, especially in the way of design since her passion is interior design. She just launched a revamped version of her blog so check it out it for some great finds, including the rundown on this gorgeous necklace I brought back from Buenos Aires.
Yesterday I heard a radio ad for Fred Meyer advertising their special on “all corn-fed beef.” In a perky radio voice the actress announced this as if it was the most wonderful thing Fred Meyer could offer its customers. Maybe at one point “corn-fed” appealed because it meant a nice marbled cut of beef but, Mr. Meyer, this informed consumer knows better. To me “corn-fed” means a fatty cut of beef from a feedlot cow that is pumped full of antibiotics and hormones for its entire short, sad life because, if it doesn’t take antibiotics, the corn (which grass-eating cows were not created to consume) will kill it.
I’d like to call on Fred Meyer to recognize the increasing demand here in Oregon for free-range, grass-fed beef. I have never seen this kind of beef in Fred Meyer and instead go to Whole Foods, New Seasons or our local farmers markets to buy it. Free-range, grass-fed beef is leaner and therefore healthier plus there’s no need to worry about the heavy use of antibiotics or hormones – free-range cows don’t need them. Most recently we enjoyed grass-fed, ranch-raised beef almost daily while in Buenos Aires. Argentine beef is world famous because the cows graze on the sweet grasses of the pampas instead of on corn while stuffed in a crowded feedlot.
Fred Meyer, I don’t hate you, I actually find your natural food section full of many of my favorite grocery items. I’m disappointed though in your lack of knowledge of what Oregon shoppers are looking for and I hope you’ll recognize that at least one customer (me!) is not the least bit interested in your corn-fed beef.
I discovered a lot of amazing things in Buenos Aires- medialunas (croissants) and cafe con leche on sidewalk cafes, gigantic parks and tree-lined boulevards, incredible steak dinners with red wine on white-linen tablecloths for under $10 – but sadly fair trade wine was not one of them. Although Argentina is the primary manufacturer of certified fair trade wines, most or possibly all are exported to Europe with a small portion being exported to the United States (but nowhere near me it seems). As I blogged about a few days ago, I shopped for new jewelry for Bambootique at several fair trade shops in Buenos Aires. I figured if any one could tell me where to buy fair trade wine, my contacts at those shops could. Through Dolores of Fundacion Silataj I received the sad news that Argentina exports its fair trade wine. She also provided me with this list of fair trade vineyards, and if you come across them anywhere in the States please let me know.
Bodegas y Viñedos Amadeo Marañon S.A. (Producer)
Cribran S.A. (Producer)
Davolio, Nidi (Producer)
Mendoza Vineyards SRL (Trader)
Inal SA (Producer)
Bodega Furlotti SA (Trader)
Viña de la Solidaridad A.C. (Producer)
Trivento Bodegas y Viñedos S.A (Trader)
La Riojana Cooperativa Vitivinifruticola de la Rioja (Producer)
There is something profoundly satisfying in conquering a city’s public transportation system, especially a city in a foreign country. By “conquer” I mean stepping into the bus, train or ferry free of the dazed and confused look of a tourist and instead full of the confident boredom of a local. I try to exude this nonchalance as quickly as possible in new places, hating the tag of tourist, although I’m sure the guidebook, map, huge backpack/ diaper bag, bottles of water and English I speak to my husband give me away within seconds. Ah well, it’s worth trying.
Today I feel we came the closest yet to living like locals here in Buenos Aires, at least in how we got around. Today we mastered Buenos Aires’ bus system. Big deal, I hear you say. How hard is a bus system? Put it this way. When the bus system requires a 192-page booklet full of maps, indexes and impossibly fine print, that bus system is not for the comfort-seeking traveler. That combined with choking diesel fumes and the drivers who begin speeding along the moment you step foot on the bus, despite the baby in your arms, means these buses should be avoided by the faint-hearted.
I’ve lived in many places where a combination of public transportation, walking and biking were convenient forms of getting around: small town Japan, Chicago, and even SW Portland. Now though I live in the Portland suburbs where taking a walk is pleasant but gets me only as far as the housing developments around me. The bus or Max are both even more inconvenient. A short stint at biking to work was great for a few months until I got pregnant and was scared I’d get hit by a car (I’m not sure how the two are related but pregnancy does weird things to your brain). So I drive as little as my suburban life allows, use my husband’s more fuel-efficient car whenever I can, and otherwise travel as “green” as I can by using public transportation wherever I am.
One habit I’ve picked up in my travels is, wherever I am, to always read a local newspaper. Somehow the people I pass on the streets become a little less like strangers and a little more like neighbors if I’ve read the same paper with my morning coffee as they read with theirs.
Yesterday I picked up a copy of the Buenos Aires’ daily La Nacion. The top headline read “Crece la controversia por el indice oficial de pobreza” or “Growing controversy about the official poverty index.” Apparently the National Institute of Statistics recently came out with new poverty stats saying 20% (or 8 million people) of Argentina’s population live in poverty. That’s a lot of people but it’s a fairly low stat for Latin America where many nations’ poverty levels exceed 50%. The controversy here is that statisticians in the private sector dispute these official numbers, saying there are an additional 4 million uncounted people living in poverty.
Either way the number of poor people in this wealthy country of Argentina is intolerable. I have had the privilege on this trip to meet some inspiring people involved in fighting poverty through comercio justo or fair trade. Earlier this week I visited Fundacion Silataj and Arte y Esperanza, and today I visited Arte de Pueblos. All three are non-profit organizations who work with indigenous groups to market their gorgeous handicrafts and to fund various community development projects. The products include warm ponchos and scarves from llama wool, eco-friendly wood pieces carved from fallen trees, handbags woven from the chaguar plant and beaded necklaces made from beautiful seeds. I was impressed by the variety of products and the quality. The traditional designs were unlike those I have seen in other Latin American countries.
I’ll return home with some new products for Bambootique but more than that I’ll return inspired by the people who work for these organizations, day in and day out, to improve the lives of those who are so skilled in their traditional work and yet live in poverty.
Dolores and Mercedes, two women who work with Fundacion Silataj to market the handicrafts of many of Argentina’s indigenous people.
Beautiful handmade ponchos and jackets
Arte y Esperanza Shop
Earrings made by Buenos Aires artisans from palo santo, an eco-friendly wood
These earrings will soon be available online from Bambootique
(Thanks Amy for modeling!)
If you’re visiting Argentina and want to purchase fair trade handicrafts, I highly recommend you visit one or all of these shops:
Vuelta de Obligado 1933, Belgrano
Arte y Esperanza
Balcarce 234, San Telmo (just a few blocks south of the Casa Rosada)
Arte de Pueblo
Libertad 948, Retiro
I feel like I’m cheating on my home city of Portland by calling BA a “city of books.” I’ve only been here a few days but I feel so at home, in part because of the librerias every few blocks. This cosmopolitan city is full of bookworms and there are new and used booksellers everywhere. I love the site of dusty book stalls full of old volumes in Spanish.
The ultimate stop for books and spectacular beauty is El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Recoleta neighborhood. El Ateneo is the largest bookstore in Latin America (although still smaller than Powell’s or even most Borders I’ve been to at home) but quite possibly the most beautiful in the world. El Ateneo is housed in an old movie theater modeled in the early 20th century after the Opera Garnier in Paris. Splendid! My daughter Grace and I browsed its elegant floors one at a time in the company of my friend Amy. I managed to emerge from its wealth of literature with only a Spanish kids word book for Grace, mainly due to the small size of the store’s English section and my lack of desire to read a full novel in Spanish while on vacation. But I left in awe of this city’s love of the printed word and elegance.
Grace explores the shelves of El Ateneo
Buenos Aires is an incredibly green city. I mean that literally, there are trees and parks everywhere. The view from our apartment (a wonderful alternative to a hotel when traveling with a child) is of leaves just beginning to take on the oranges and yellows of fall. Although it’s autumn here in the southern hemisphere, the temperature hovers in the low to mid-70s and the morning air is sticky with humidity left from last night’s sudden but brief thunderstorm. This thriving metropolis of over 12 million people has a soul like no other I’ve seen in Latin America and I’m delighted to find that includes a love for green spaces.